By Francesco Lee
Starting 2025 with…
Let me guide you through a selection of lots offered in our online auction “wine o’clock” #91 to be held from Geneva on Tuesday, 14th of January 2025.
Lot 42—Vogue Bonnes Mares 1989
Vogue had a tough period since 80s due to its rustic and bulky s type. It aims to be super long cellaring before revealing its core. 1989 was made as a much softer style than legendary 1990 vintage. Love it since 2020. Floral, sous bois, autumn leaves, complex and long finish.
Lots 56-59—Rene Engel
Clos Vougeot 2004
Legend and Legendary. Engel still remains favorite domaine in my heart and many collectors. Its charmingly fresh fruit brightens your heart. Its Clos Vougeot are the best among its all cuvée in my palate. Thanks to its soil and attitude similar to Musigny, it has the perfect balance and power of yin and yang.
Lot 162—Trotanoy 2004
Trotanoy was the flagship of Moueix in the old days even Petrus was in the house. The soil is a very dense mixture of clay and gravel which tends to solidify as it dries out after rain to an almost concerete-like hardness, hence the name “Trontanoy” or in the other words, “too wearisone” to cultivate (from Moueix website). Same as Petrus, its soil is a natural defense against over-hydration. 2004 just entered into drinking window in 2022. Tannin is silky while fruit is mellow and round. Powerful while gentle.
Lot 213—Guigal
Cote Rôtie 1976
Guigal produces the best known La La La while its Cote Rôtie is the most consistent and best quality/price gem. 1976 is legendary vintage in Rhône and no doubt for Guigal. Great provenance bottle still shows strong and uptight performance. Freshly grinded coffee bean, dried black cherry, tobacco, chocolate, totally resolved and silky tannin since 2015 and still in top form in last tasting in 2021.
Lot 223—Keller G-Max
G-Max is the flagship to me. It really challenges the German riesling and Burgundy chardonnay in terms of white wine complexity and elegancy. Complexity comes from wide spectrum of fruits is mindblowing, from citrus to tropical. Laser shape acidity. You need at least 6 hours breathing to enjoy this master. Long way to go.